This no-sew crochet crab free pattern is a quick and easy summer amigurumi project that’s perfect for confident beginners. Made with minimal finishing and no sewing required, this cute little crab works up quickly and makes a fun addition to your collection of ocean-themed crochet patterns.

It’s crafted with Parfait chunky orange and beige yarn, a 5mm crochet hook, 8 mm safety eyes, stuffing, a tapestry needle, scissors, and stitch markers to keep your stitches in line. The stitches used in this tutorial are simple and easy, like single crochet stitches and half double crochet, plus some crochet techniques like increasing and decreasing.

This tutorial includes how to make the body, legs, and big and small claws. Just follow the instructions to finish it in no time and have your cheerful sea friend.

Materials

• Velvet Medium Weight Yarn in colors: orange, beige
• Sport Weight Yarn in colors: black
• 5 mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker
• Scissors
• Fiberfill
• 8 mm safety eyes

Abbreviations

Mr – magic ring
sl st – slip stitch
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
BLO – back loops only

The pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Legs x6

Start with orange yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Mr/2ch (6)
Rnd 2: 6 sc (6)
Rnd 3: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)
Rnd 4-7: 8 sc (8) (4 rounds)

Lightly stuff the leg. Fold the last round and 4 sc across the 2 sides to connect them.

Fasten off, cut the tail short.

Claws x2

Start with orange yarn.

The claws have 2 parts: a longer part and a shorter part, which will be connected with 2 sc to create the arm part of the claws. We first make the big parts of the claws, then fasten off and make the small part, connecting it to the big part.

Big Claw Part x2

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Mr (4)
Rnd 2: 2 sc, 2 inc (6)
Rnd 3-4: 6 sc 96) (2 rounds)

Fasten off, cut the tail short.

Small Claw Part x2

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Mr (4)
Rnd 2: 2 sc, 2 inc (6)
Rnd 3: 6 sc (6)

Put the big part right next to the small part and insert the corchet hook through the inside of the big part and through the small part, making 1 sc. Repeat 1 more time for another sc.

Do not crochet on these sts. They will remain inside.

Step 1: crochet 2 sc through the big and small claw.
Step 2: crochet 4 sc around the outside of the small claw.
Step 3: crochet 4 sc around the outside of the big claw.
Note: the 2 sc we dii to connect the claws remain unworked.

Claw Continuation

Rnd 1: 4 sc around the small claw and 4 sc around the big claw (8)
Rnd 2-5: 8 sc (8) (4 rounds)

Fold the last round and 4 sc across the 2 sides to connect them.

Fasten off, cut the tail short.

Body

Rnd 1: begin in beige, 7 ch, crochet starting from the 2nd ch from hook, make 6 sc on one side of the chains, turn and make 6 sc on the other side of the chains. You should be left with an oval surrounding the initial chain (12)
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 9 (27)
Rnd 4: 27 sc (27)
Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc) x 9 (36)
Rnd 6: 36 sc (36)
Rnd 7: (3 sc, inc) x 9 (45)

Now we will make a seamless color change to orange as such, while also attaching the final 4 sc of the legs and claws to the body. Make sure the small part of the claw is pointing downwards.

Rnd 8: in orange: make LOOSE sl sts in the BLO of R7: 4 sl st (4 sl st through 1 leg) x 3, 4 sl st through 1 claw, 7 sl st, 4 sl st through 1 claw, (4 sl st through 1 leg) x 3, 2 sl st

Rnd 9: 45 sc in BLO of sl sts (45)
Rnd 10: (3 sc, dec) x 9 (36)
Rnd 11: (sc, dec) x 12 (24)
Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Insert the eyes between R11-R10, between the 2 claws at the front, about 5 sts apart.

Fully stuff the crab’s body.

Rnd 13: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 14: 6 dec (6)

Fasten off, sew the hole closed.

Using black sport-weight yarn, embroider a little mouth between the crab’s eyes.

Using orange yarn, sew the “claws” part of the claws attached to the “arm” part of the claws on the inner side (towards the face), to give them a 90 degree angle pointing towards the face and each other, instead of having them point straight.

Weave in all ends.

The post No-Sew Summer Crab Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Yarn Gems.

If you’ve been wanting a cute new make, I’ve got just the project for you. This is a free Dobby the House Elf crochet pattern that’s super easy and perfect for any Harry Potter fan. You can easily customize this little elf by using different yarn colors & themes.

This free crochet pattern starts by making the arms, legs, body, ears, nose, head, tunic, small sock, large sock, and how to assemble all parts.

All you need to make this Dobby is to know some basic crochet stitches like single crochet stitches, half double crochet, and some crochet techniques like increases and decreases.

You can use it as a unique handmade gift for fantasy lovers, use it in whimsical photography or storytelling scenes, or display it as a small decorative companion with a touch of handmade magic.

Materials

• YarnArt jeans yarn in colors:
• Light peach (body), beige (tunic), dark gray (socks), black, white, green (for embroidery eyes)
• 2.5 mm crochet hook
• 6 mm safety eyes
• Fitting crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers
• Safety eyes
• Fiber stuffing

Size: 8 cm tall

Abbreviations

Mr – magic ring
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
hdc – half double crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
hdc-inc – half double crochet increase
hdc-dec – half double crochet decrease

The pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Arms x2

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a Mr (6)
Rnd 2-7: 6 sc (6) (6 rounds)

Sl st ti the next stitch.

Fasten off, cut the yarn (leave short tail).

Legs x2

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a Mr (6)
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x 3 (9)
Rnd 3-5: 9 sc (9) (3 rounds)

First leg: sl st to the next stitch. Faste off, cut the yarn (leave short tail).

Don’t finish off the second leg.

Body

Continue working on the second leg, both legs will be connected in the first rounds.

Rnd 1: ch 2, 9 sc around Leg 1, 2 sc into the chain, 9 sc around Leg 2, 2 sc into the chain (22)
Rnd 2-5: 22 sc (22) (4 rounds)

Both arms will be joined in R6:

Fold the arm in half, then crochet through both layers of the arm together with the body.

Rnd 6: 3 sc, 3 sc with Arm 1, 9 sc, 3 sc with Arm 2, 5 sc (22)
Rnd 7: 2 sc, dec, sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, sc, dec, 4 sc (18)

Fasten off, cut the yarn leaving a short end.

Ears x2

Rnd 1: 4 sc in a Mr (4)
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x 2 (6)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc, sc) x 2 (8)
Rnd 4: (3 sc, inc) x 2 (10)
Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x 2 (12)
Rnd 6: (5 sc, inc) x 2 (14)

Fold the ear in half, ch 1, close by crocheting 7 sc through both layers.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Nose

Rnd 1: 4 sc in a Mr (4)
Rnd 2: 4 sc (4)
Rnd 3: sc, inc, 2 sc (5)
Rnd 4: inc ,4 sc (6)

Sl st into the next stitch, fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Head

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a Mr (6)
Rnd 2: 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 7-10: 36 sc (36) (4 rounds)
Rnd 11: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 12: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Rnd 13: (sc, dec, sc) x 6 (18)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

You can either embroider the eyes or insert safety eyes between rounds 8-9 about 5 visible stitches apart from each other.

Sew the nose between the eyes, covering rounds 9-10.

Sew the ears on both sides of the head, covering rounds 6-11, make sure the ears are centered with the face.

Assembly

• Stuff both, the head and the body.
• For the neck, align the 18 stitches on the head with the 18 stitches on the body. Sew together using the long yarn strand from the head. Make sure the face is centered with the body.

Tunic

The tunic is worked in rows. The length of the tunic should cover 9 rounds of the body and legs.

Row 1: ch 11 (11)
Row 2: skip the first chain, 10 sl st (10)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, 7 hdc (leave the row unfinished) (7)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, hdc-dec, 6 hdc (6)
Row 5-8: ch 1, turn, 6 hdc (6) (4 rows)
Row 9: ch 1, turn, 5 hdc, hdc-inc (7)

We are going to make an armhole in the next row.

Row 10: ch 4, turn, skip the chain + 3 stitches on R9, 3 hdc (leave the last stitch unfinished) (6)
Row 11: ch 3, turn, skip the frist chain, 2 hdc into the chain, 3 hdc, 3 hdc + 1 sc into the armhole (9)
Row 12: ch 1, turn, 3 sc, 6 hdc (9)
Row 13: ch 1, turn, 7 hdc, 2 sc (9)
Row 14: ch 1, turn, 1 sc, 7 hdc (leave unfinished) (8)
Row 15-16: ch 1, turn, 8 hdc (8)
Row 17: ch 1, turn, 7 hdc, to the last stitch: (hdc, ch 2, hdc) (11)
Row 18: ch 3, turn, skip the first chain, 2 sl st into the chain, sl st, 2 sl st into the ch 2 space, 7 sl st (leave unfinished) (12)

Fasten off, cut the yarn leaing a long tail for sewing.

Dressing Up

• The longer part of the tunic is on the back, the shorter part on the front.
• The left hand will go through the armhole.

• Sew the side under the right arm.
• Slip the top strap through the ch 2 loop on the second strap over the right shoulder. Secure with a seam.

Small Sock

Best for: when you are using the same yarn weight and hook size for both the doll and the sock.

This sock size will perfectly match the doll’s hands when made from the same yarn weight.

Rnd 1: 5 sc in a Mr (5)
Rnd 2-3: 5 sc (5) (2 rounds)
Rnd 4-6: 2 hdc, 3 sl st (5) (3 rounds)
Rnd 7-8: 5 sc (5)
Rnd 9: 3 sc, 2 sl st (5)

Fasten off, cut the yarn short, weave in the ends.

Large Sock

Best for: when you are making the doll from a thicker yarn but want to use a thinner cotton/acrylic yarn for the sock.

If you use the same yarn for both, this sock will look oversized.

Rnd 1: 5 sc in a Mr (5)
Rnd 2: 5 inc (10)
Rnd 3-6: 10 sc (10) (4 rounds)
Rnd 7-10: sc, 3 hdc, sc, 5 sl st (10) (4 rounds)
Rnd 11-15: 10 sc (10) (5 rounds)
Rnd 16: 10 sl st (10)

Fasten off, cut the yarn short, weave in the end.

The post Mini Dobby House Elf Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Yarn Gems.

This crochet backpack is made to fit small amigurumi toys and crochet characters. Its compact shape and cute details create a practical little accessory that adds personality to your handmade creations. 

Materials needed to make this tiny backpack are fine yarn weight, a 2.5 mm crochet hook, and a button. All you need to make this puppy is to know some basic crochet stitches like single crochet stitches, half double crochet, and some crochet techniques like how to increase.

This tutorial is very easy to follow and has a lot of pictures that show each step in the tutorial, and it also has a photo tutorial on how to assemble all pieces to make the backpack.

Pick your prettiest cotton, and in one cozy evening your doll will have the cutest bag on the shelf.

Materials

• Fine/4ply yarn Yarnart Jeans (50g/160 m, Cotton 55%, Acrylic 45%): brown 71
• 3.5 mm and 2.5 mm crochet hooks
• 15 mm button

Abbreviations

Mr – magic ring
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
inc – increase

Backpack

Start with brown yarn, 2.5 mm crochet hook.

Rnd 1: ch 11, start on the second chain from the hook: inc, 8 sc, inc, on the other side of the chain: inc, 8 sc, inc (24)

Rnd 2: (sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, sc) x 2 (28)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc x 2, 8 sc, inc x 2, sc) x 2 (36)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc x 2, 12 sc, inc x 2, 3 sc) x 2 (44)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc x 2, 12 sc, inc x 2, 3 sc) x 2 (52)
Rnd 6-26: 21 round of 52 sc (52) + 4 sc to the edge, the thread should be above the edge of the foundation chain.

From the next stitch mark a beginning of a new rounds.

Rnd 27: 2 hdc, ch 1, skip one stitch, 5 hdc, ch 1, skip one stitch, 7 hdc, ch 1, skip one stitch, (5 hdc, ch 1, skip one stitch) x 3, 7 hdc, ch 1, skip one stitch, 5 hdc, ch 1, skip one stitch, 2 hdc, sc (52)
Rnd 28-29: 2 rounds of 52 sc (52), skip one stitch, 2 sl st

Cut the yarn, fasten off and hide under stitches

Cars

Make ch 90.

Tie knots at the ends.

Flap

Work in rows, starting each new row with ch 1.

Row 1: ch 5, from the second chain from the hook 4 sc (4)
Row 2: inc, 2 sc, inc (6)
Row 3: inc, 4 sc, inc (8)
Row 4: inc, 6 sc, inc (10)
Row 5: 10 sc (10)
Row 6: inc, 8 sc, inc (12)
Row 7-23: 17 rows of 12 sc (12)

Next, work along the sides with sc into each row and make a button loop.

Edging: 23 sc, ch 6, skip 4 stitches on the foundation chain, 23 sc.

Leave the yarn end for sewing.

Pockets x2

Work in rows, starting each new row with ch 1.

Row 1: ch 9, from the second chain from the hook: (inc, sc) x 2, (sc, inc) x 2 (12)
Row 2-8: 7 rows of 12 sc (12)

Leave the yarn end for sewing.

Straps x2

Leave the yarn end for sewing.

Row 1: ch 51, from the second chain from the hook 50 sc (50), ch 1, turn
Row 2: 50 sc (50)

Leave the yarn end for sewing.

Assembly

• Sew the flap to the back center, 2 rounds down from the round with hdc stitches.

• Sew the pockets to the sides, along 8 rounds, from round 6 from the bottom, along 3 sides. Sew them using 8 stitches at the bottom and 10 stitches between the edges at the top.
• Sew a button to the front after round 18.
• Sew the straps crosswise. At the top, under the flap, along the edges. At the bottom, near the lower edges of the pockets.

The post Tiny Doll Backpack Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Yarn Gems.

Let’s make this beginner-friendly crochet puppy pattern with soft, squishy, and just the right amount of floppy. The design is simple with easy-to-follow instructions.

This free puppy crochet pattern works up quickly with soft velvet yarn. This amigurumi version is the perfect size for small hands and a quick make! There are so many color options you can play around with.

All you need to make this puppy is to know some basic crochet stitches like single crochet stitches, and some crochet techniques like increases and decreases.

The written instructions below include how to make this puppy; it starts with making the head, ears, body, front paws, hind paws, and tail, and then attaching the ears and head to the body of the puppy.

Materials

• Soft valvet yarn any color you like
• 4 mm crochet hook
• 10 mm safety eyes
• Safety nose (optional)
• Stuffing
• Stitch marker
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle

Abbreviations

Mr – magic ring
sc – single crochet
dec – decrease
inc – increase

The pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4-5: 18 sc (18)
Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc x 10, 4 sc (28)
Rnd 7: 10 c, inc x 8, 10 sc (46)
Rnd 8-9: 36 sc (36)
Rnd 10: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Rnd 11: 30 sc (30)
Rnd 12: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Stuff the head. Place the safety eyes just above the nose 8 sc apart.

Rnd 13: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 14: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 15: dec x 6 (6)

Fasten off and leave a long piece for sewing. Stitch the nose with dark yarn or attach a safety nose.

Ears x2

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a Mr (8)
Rnd 2: (1 sc, inc) repeat till end of round (12)
Rnd 3-5: 12 sc (12)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)
Rnd 7: 10 sc (10)
Rnd 8: 3 sc, dec (8)
Rnd 9: Flatten the each and stitch 4 sc through both sides (4)

Fasten off and leave a piece for sewing.

Body

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a Mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
Rnd 8: 42 sc (42)
Rnd 9: (1 sc, dec) x 6, 24 sc (36)
Rnd 10: (1 sc, dec) x 6, 18 sc (30)
Rnd 11: 12 sc, (1 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Rnd 12-16: 24 sc (24)
Rnd 17: dec x 6, 12 sc (18)
Rnd 18: 18 sc (18)

Fasten off and stuff the body firmly.

Front Paws x2

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a Mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: 12 sc (12)
Rnd 4: 4 dec, 4 sc (8)
Rnd 5: 2 sc, dec x 2, 2 sc (6)
Rnd 6: 2 sc, inc x 2, 2 sc (8)
Rnd 7-10: 8 sc (8)
Rnd 11: (3 sc, inc) x 2 (10)
Rnd 12: 10 sc (10)

Stuff the front paws firmly, so that the puppy will be stable enough. Fasten off and leave a piece for sewing.

Hind Paws x2

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a Mr (8)
Rnd 2: (3 sc, inc) x 2 (10)
Rnd 3-8: 10 sc (10)
Rnd 9: (3 sc, dec) repeat till end of round (8)
Rnd 10-14: 8 sc (8)

Stuff. Do not stuff the top of the leg too firmly.

Rnd 15: Flatten and stitch 4 sc through both sides (4)

Fasten off and leave a piece for sewing. Make 2 hind paws.

Variation tip: rather have a standing puppy? Create the front paw pattern 4x and use two of them as hind paws. Make sure to stuff extra firmly to gibe the puppy enough tability.

Tail

Rnd 1: 3 sc in a Mr (3)
Rnd 2: inc, 2 sc (4)
Rnd 3: inc, 3 sc (5)
Rnd 4: inc, 4 sc (6)
Rnd 5: inc, 5 sc (7)
Rnd 6: inc, 6 sc (8)
Rnd 7-10: 8 sc (8)
Rnd 11: dec x 2, 4 sc (6)
Rnd 12: 6 sc (6)

Stuff the tail firmly. Fasten off and leave a piece for sewing.

Assembly

• Sew the ears to the sides of the head. Sew the head onto the open part of the body. The slight “bulge” on top of the body should be on the back side.
• Attach the front paws, hind paws, and tail to the body. Make sure the front paws are not too far apart from each other, so that the hind paws can fit next to the front paws.
• If needed you can sew the top parts of the front paws together to make the paws more centered.

The post Fluffy Sitting Puppy Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Yarn Gems.

Your Pokemon collection will not be complete without this charming and cute Omanyte amigurumi. With its cozy shell, soft tentacles, and big shiny eyes, this tiny creature is incredibly adorable and fits right in the palm of your hand.

For this pattern you will use blanket yarn in cream or brown for the shell and blue for the body, a 7 mm crochet hook, a darning needle, fiberfill, and 18 mm safety eyes. The stitches used in this tutorial are simple and easy, like single crochet stitches, half double crochet, and some crochet techniques like increasing and decreasing.

The tutorial starts with the body and head, then the tentacles, then the shell, and at the end all the parts are assembled together.

You can pick any of your favorite colors and watch your new little friend appear stitch by stitch. You can make a lot of them, one will never be enough.

Materials

• Light Blue/Light Purple (Blanket) yarn
• Brown / Tan (Blanket) yarn
• White (Worsted/parfait) yarn
• 7 mm crochet hook
• Darning needle
• Stuffing
• 18 mm safety eyes
• Stitch marker

Abbreviations

Mr – magic ring
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only

The pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head & Body

Start with purple or blue yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a Mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: BLO: 1 sc in each st (18)
Rnd 5-6: 1 sc in each st (18) (2 rounds)

The next round is the tentacles.

Rnd 7: (ch 3, starting in the 2nd ch from hook 1 sc in each st of ch. FLO sl st into the next avaible st from R6. Ch 3, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each st of ch. FLO sl st in the next 2 st avaible from R6) x 9 (18)

Place eyes between R4/R5 about 2 st apart.

Rnd 8: BLO of R6 dec x 9 (9)

Stuff.

Rnd 9: (1 sc, dec) x 3 (6)

Fasten off. Leave a tail. Close hole.

Shell

Start with brown/tan yarn.

Rnd 1: ch 9, starting in the 2nd ch from hook 1 sc in each st. turn your work and continue working 1 sc around the back side of the chain, 6)
Rnd 2-21: 1 sc in each st (16) (20 rounds)
Rnd 22: (inc, 7 sc) x 2 (18)
Rnd 23: (inc 8 sc) x 2 (20)
Rnd 24: (inc, 4 sc) x 4 (24)

Sc to the corner (about 7 st), sl st. This will be your new start. Ch 1 and turn.

Rnd 25: 12 sc, sl st (12)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing (8-10 inches)

Do not stuff shell.

Rolling the Shell

Place the shell so the longer side (the side with the extra 12 st) faces down. The longer side is the front. Roll the top of the shell backwards, away from the front side. Keep this roll as tight as you can as it will loosen as you sew.

Once you reach the bottom back edge of the shell use the tail and the darning needle to sew through all rounds of the newly formed spiral and back bottom edge of the shell.

Do not sew through the front 3 rows of the shells at the bottom, you need this piece to have an opening.

Once you have your spiral formed and sewn tie it off. If you still have a decent amount of tail left use it to assemble the pieces.

Assembly

• Place the shell on the top of the body. The spiral should face away from the eyes.

• Using the tail left on the shell, or a new piece of the brown/tan sew the shell to the body just above the eyes and down to the tentacles as you go around the body.
• Stuff the space between the body and shell just before you finish closing the pieces off.
• Fasten off.
• Weave in ends.

Details (Optional)

Use a piece if the white and your darning needle to add the lining to the outside of the eyes.

Weave in your ends.

The post Cute Omanyte Pokemon Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on Yarn Gems.

Add a touch of fairy magic to your shelf with this beautiful Sylveon amigurumi, inspired by the beloved Pokemon character! A soft cream texture, pink ears and paws, big shiny eyes, and the signature ribbons and bows make this graceful toy a dream for any fan who will definitely want this Pokémon in their collection.

To make this pattern you will need bulky yarn in pink, light blue, blue, and white, 30 mm safety eyes, a 6.5 mm crochet hook, fiberfill, a tapestry needle, and stitch markers.

The stitches used in this tutorial are simple and easy, like single crochet stitches, half double crochet, double crochet, and some crochet techniques like increasing, decreasing, and changing colors. Nothing complicated at all you will start with the legs, the body, and the head, then the tails, the head with the hat, 4 ears, and the most important part, the 4 ribbons.

Grab your softest yarn, pour yourself something warm, and let those ribbons bloom stitch by stitch. Let’s get started!

Materials

• Bulky yarn (Alize Velluto size 6) in colors:
• blue, light blue, pink, white
• 30 mm safety eyes
• 6.5 mm crochet hook
• Stuffing
• Scissors
• Stitch marker
• Darning needle

Abbreviations

ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
tr – triple crochet
BO – bobble stitch
inc – increase
dec – decrease

Legs x4

Start with pink yarn.

Rnd 1: 5 sc in Mr (5)
Rnd 2: inc x 5 (10)
Rnd 3: 2 sc, BO x 3, 5 sc (10)
Rnd 4: 10 sc (10) change color to white
Rnd 5-7: 10 sc (10) (3 rounds)

Stuff the legs.

Fasten off 3 of the legs, don’t cut the yarn on the 4th, we continue the body here.

Body

Start with white yarn.

4 sc on the last leg, connect the leg with 2ch together. The feet should be facing to the front when we connect them, we start at the back legs. Place stitch marker here.Place the legs slightly crossed to each other.

8 sc on each leg. We connect each leg with 2ch, till we reach our stitch marker (40)

You can recignize the front part on the body by the fact that the toes point forward.

The toes should be slightly facing each other.

Rnd 9-13: 40 sc (40) (5 rounds)
Rnd 14: 20 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec (38)
Rnd 15: dec, 18 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec (35)
Rnd 16: dec, (3 sc, dec) x 6, 3 sc (28)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Place the decrease between front and back legs.

Rnd 1: insert hook to the back inner leg and sc around (16)
Rnd 2: dec, 6 sc, dec, 6 sc (14)

Make sure the decrease is placed between the front and back legs, maybe you have to do more sc.

Fasten off. Close the down part of the body by sewing it in a line. Stuff the legs and body tightly and close the upper part of the body by sewing it in a line.

You can recognize the front part on the body by the fact that the toes point forward.

Tail Small

Start with pink yarn.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Mr (4)
Rnd 2: inc, 3 sc (5)
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x 2, inc (8)
Rnd 4: (sc, inc) x 4 (12)
Rnd 5-6: 12 sc (12) (2 rounds)

Fold in half, crochet through both sides.

Fasten off. Don’t stuff. You don’t need a long tail for sewing.

Tail Big

Start with pink yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Mr (6)
Rnd 2: 6 sc (6)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 3 (9)
Rnd 4: 9 sc (9)
Rnd 5: (sc, inc) x 4, sc (13)
Rnd 6: 13 sc (13)
Rnd 7: (sc, inc) x 6, sc (19)
Rnd 8-11: 19 sc (19) (4 rounds)
Rnd 12: 11 sc, (dec) x 4 (15)
Rnd 13: 3 sc, (dec) x 2, 2 sc, attach the smaller piece by crocheting through both sides 6 sc (13)
Rnd 14: 13 sc (13)

Stuff.

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Head

Start with white yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 7-11: 36 sc (36) (5 rounds)
Rnd 12: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Rnd 13: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Insert eyes at R9-11 with 8 sc apart.

Stuff the head.

Cap

Start with pink yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 7-10: 36 sc (36) (4 rounds)
Rnd 11: 7 sc, 1 ch, turn (7)
Rnd 12: skip 1 stitch, 6 sc, 1 ch, turn (6)
Rnd 13: skip 1 stitch, 5 sc, 1 ch, turn (5)
Rnd 14: skip 1 stitch, 4 sc, 1 ch, turn (4)
Rnd 15: skip 1 stitch, 3 sc, 1 ch, turn (3)
Rnd 16: skip 1 stitch, 2 sc, 1 ch, turn (2)
Rnd 17: skip 1 stitch, sc (1)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew the cap at the head, the peak should be on R9 between the eyes.

Ears Small x2

Start with pink yarn.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Mr (4)
Rnd 2: inc, 3 sc (5)
Rnd 3: inc, 4 sc (6)
Rnd 4: 6 sc (6) Don’t stuff.

Fold in half, crochet 3 sc through both sides.

Fasten off. We don’t need to leave a tail for sewing.

Ears x2

Start with pink yarn.

Color change is marked, there is a left and a right ear.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Mr (4)
Rnd 2: inc, 3 sc (5)
Rnd 3: inc, 4 sc (6)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)
Rnd 5: (sc, inc) x 4 (12)
Rnd 6-7: 12 sc (12) (2 rounds)
Rnd 8: 4 sc, 1 sc, 7 sc (12)
Rnd 9-10: 3 sc, 3 sc, 6 sc (12) (2 rounds)
Rnd 11: inc, 1 sc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, 1 sc, inc, 3 sc (15)
Rnd 12: 4 sc, 4 sc, 7 sc (15)
Rnd 13: 5 sc, 2 sc, 8 sc (15) Fasten off the blue yarn.
Rnd 14: (Left ear): 1 sc, attach the smaller ear piece by crocheting through both sides 3 sc, 4 sc, 3x dec, 1 sc (12)
Rnd 14: (Right ear): 1 sc, 3x dec, 3 sc, attach the smaller ear piece by crocheting through both side 3 sc, 2 sc (12)

Fasten off. Don’t stuff. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly

• Sew the head to the body, make sure that the transition of the cap is barely visible.

• Sew the tail to the back part of the body between R16 and R12 make sure that the smaller part of the tail is below.

• Sew the ears to the head between R5 and R8 with 6 sc apart. Make sure they are sewn on the correct side and the smaller parts are on the side of the ear.

Ribbon x4

Leave a long tail at the start.

Start with white yarn: 4 ch, start at 2nd chain from the hook:

Rnd 1-25: 3 sc, ch, turn (25 rounds)

Change to pink:

Rnd 26-27: 3 sc, ch, turn (2 rounds)

Change to blue:

Rnd 28-29: 3 sc, ch, turn (2 rounds)

Change to blue:

Rnd 30: 3 sc, ch, turn
Rnd 31: dc x 2, sl st, dc x 2

Fasten off. Leave a tail for sewing.

You should corhcet around the yarn strings from the color change, so tehy are hidden and will not be seen ever again.

Sew the ribbon on the ear and the neck.

Use the tail of the end part of the ribbon to sew it on the place you like.

Bow Large

All stitches into Mr:

Leave a long pink tail for later.
Start with pink: 4 ch, 6 tr, 4 ch, sl st, 4 ch, 6 tr, 4 ch, sl st. Close the Mr.

Change to white: crochet 4 hdc into ch-space, 6 hdc, 4 hdc into ch-space, sl st. 4 hdc into ch-space, 6 hdc, 4 hdc into ch-space, sl st.

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Take the pink tail and wrap around the middle to create the right bow form. Fasten off and sew it into the ear and the neck.

Bow Small

All stitches into MR:

Leave a ling pink tail for later.
Start with pink: 3 ch, 5x dc, 3 ch, sl st, 3 ch, 5x dc, 3 ch, sl st. Close the Mr.

Change to white: crochet 3 sc into ch-space, 5x hdc, 3 sc into ch-space, sl st, 3 sc into ch-space, 5x hdc, 3 sc into ch-space, sl st.

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Take the pink tail and wrap around the middle to create the right bow form. Fasten off and sew it into the ear and the neck.

The post Cute Pink Sylveon Pokemon Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Yarn Gems.

Add this fun Magnemite amigurumi to your crochet Pokemon collection. With its round grey body, cute happy face, and two horseshoe-shaped magnets on the sides, this funny plushie makes a great shelf decoration or a special handmade gift.

Materials needed to make it are Velvet yarn in blue, red, white, and dark grey colors, a 5 mm crochet hook, 10 mm safety eyes, stuffing, a tapestry needle, and a stitch marker.

This pattern is suitable for intermediate crocheters and besides simple stitches, it uses two more advanced techniques (both are explained in the pattern): back posts/front posts and inverted crochet. But you can also make it without them by replacing them with regular back loop only.

The tutorial starts with crocheting the Pokemon head, then the screws, hat, and the main details – the magnets. After that, everything is assembled together. It may look a little complicated, but you can do it! So, let’s get started!

Materials

• Velvet yarn of your choice in colors:
• blue, red, white, dark grey
• 5.0 mm crochet hook
• 10 mm safety eyes
• Felt: blue, red, dark red
• Fabric glue or hot glue
• Stitch marker
• Fiberfill
• Scissors
• Darning needle
• Sewing pins
• Optional: eyeshadow (blue, red)

Abbreviations

Mr – magic ring
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
SC2TOG – single crochet 2 stitches together
BLO – back loops only
FLO – front loops only

The pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Head

Start with silver yarn.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a Mr (8)
Rnd 2: 8 inc (16)
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x 8 (24)
Rnd 4: (1 sc, inc, 2 sc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 5: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 3 sc) x 6 (42)
Rnd 7: (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
Rnd 8: (3 sc, inc, 4 sc) x 6 (54)
Rnd 9: (8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)
Rnd 10-20: sc around (60) (11 rounds)
Rnd 21: (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)
Rnd 22: (3 sc, dec, 4 sc) x 6 (48)
Rnd 23: (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
Rnd 24: (2 sc, dec, 3 sc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 25: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Attach safety eyes between R14 and R15, 7 stitches apart. Begin stuffing and continue stuffing as you go.

Rnd 26: (sc, dec, 2 sc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 27: (sc, dec) x 8 (16)
Rnd 28: 8 dec (8)

Fasten off, finish stuffing and sew the hole closed.

Big Screw

Start with silver yarn.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a Mr (8)
Rnd 2: 8 inc (16)
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x 8 (24)

*Back posts: insert you hook from the back, then through the next stitch from the front, finish the stitch as usual, repeat this in every stitch , it creates really nice and sharp edge. (you can work into the back loops instead)

*sc2tog vs dec: these are two different kinds of decreases. Invisible decreases are better for stuffed pieces, while sc2tog stitches are better for flat pieces. In this pattern sc2tog used because it simply easier to work into the back posts/ back loops.

Rnd 4: in back posts: sc around (24)
Rnd 5: in back posts: (sc2tog, sc) x 8 (16)
Rnd 6: 8 dec (8)

Next, we’ll crochet in the front posts (you can work into the front loops instead)

*Front posts: insert you hook, then through the next stitch from the back, finish the stitch as usual repeat it in every stitch.

Rnd 7: in front posts: sc around (8)
Rnd 8: sc around (8)
Rnd 9: 4 sc, skip the remaining stitches (4)

Fasten off and leave a tail fro sewing. Stuff the screw lightly, but make sure the top part remains flat.

Small Screws x2

Start with silver yarn.

*sc2

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a Mr (8)
Rnd 2: 8 inc (16)
Rnd 3: in the back posts: sc around (16)
Rnd 4: in the back posts: sc2tog x 8 (8)
Rnd 5: 2 dec, in the front posts: 4 sc (6)
Rnd 6: in the front posts: 2 sc (6) (normally: 4 sc)
Rnd 7: sc around (6)

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Stuff the screw but make sure the top part remains flat.

Droup

Start with white yarn.

Rnd 1: ch 3, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: hdc, dc (2)

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Hat

Start with white yarn.

Rnd 1:8 sc in a Mr (8)
Rnd 2: 8 inc (16)
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x 8 (24)
Rnd 4: (sc, inc, 2 sc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 5: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 6-9: sc around (36)
Rnd 10: in the front loops: 3 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, sc2to, leave the remaining stitches unworked (12)

From here, we’ll work in rows.

Row 11: turn, (inverted:) skip the frist stitch, sc2tog, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, sc2tog (10)

*How to make inverted stitches: when working in rows, use this techinque for every 2nd row (when pice is turned to its backside) to make all of your stitches face the same way.

• insert your hook from the back
• yarn under
• pull a loop through

• yarn over
• pull through both loops on your hook
• this way all your stitches will face the same way

Row 12: turn, skip the first stitch, sc2tog, 5 sc, sc2tog (7)
Row 13: turn, (inverted:) skip the first stitch, sc2tog, 2 sc, sc2tog (4)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Magnets x2

Start with silver yarn.

This piece is worked in rows. Start with blue yarn and change colors according to the backgrounds, no backfround color means silver.

Row 1: ch 4, then pull a silver loop through 9the 5th ch should be blue, with a silver loop on your hook),
ch 17, then pull a red loop through (this chain should be silver, with a red loop on your hook), ch 3, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: 2 sc, 6 sc, inc, sc, 2 inc, sc, inc, 6 sc, 5 sc (29)

Row 2: turn, (inverted:) 5 sc, 7 sc, inc, sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc, inc, 7 sc, 2 sc (33)

Row 3: turn, BLO: 2 sc, in the back posts: 26 sc, BLO: 2 sc, leave the remaining 3 stitches unworked (30)

Row 4: turn, (inverted:) 2 sc, 26 sc, 2 sc (30)

Row 5: in turn, BLO: 2 sc, in the back posts: 7 sc, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, 2 sc, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, 7 sc, BLO: 2 sc (26)

Row 6: turn (inverted:) 2 sc, 6 sc, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog x 2, sc, sc2tog, 6 sc, 2 sc (22)

Row 7: turn, ch 4, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: 3 sc, continue along the piece as normal: BLO: 2 sc, in the back posts: 18 c, BLO: 2 sc (25)

Row 8: turn, (inverted:) 2 sc, 18 sc, 5 sc (25)

Fasten off nad leave a tail for sewing of each color.

Sew the silver stitches of R8 to the silver part of the base chain.

Add stuffing using a chopstick or pencil. Don’t stuff it too tightly so the magnet keeps its angular shape. Fold the longer colured pieces down and sew the openings closed.

Felt Details

Take a screenshot. Trace these in the corret size and then use the paper templates to cut your felt pieces.

5 rounds tall.

11 stitches wide, 1 round tall.

Assembly

• Sew the hat above R6, with the visor pointing slighly to the right. Add stuffing. Then sew the droop 1-2 stitches behind the visor.
• Sew the big screw onto the top of the hat.

• Sew the magnets to the sides of the head. They should be lined up with the eyes, with 8 stitches in between.

• Sew the small screws onto R21-22 (5 rounds in between the eyes and small screws), with 9-10 stitches in between them.

• Embroider dark grey Xs onto the screws.

• Glue the mouth onto R17 (1 round below the eyes), and the logo slighly rotated onto R4-8 of the hat, above the visor.

• Add red and blue eyeshadow between mouth and magnets. It should be about 5 rounds tall, but not go above the eyes. Or crochet the cheeks: R1: 8 sc in Mr (8), R2: 8 inc (16)

Done!

The post Cute Magnemite Pokemon Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on Yarn Gems.

A sweet crochet bear designed in a resting position with soft shaping and delicate details that give it a soothing, sleepy character. This chubby bear has a round chubby body, a cozy muzzle, little ears, and peaceful sleepy eyes with rosy cheeks, which gives it an extra cuddly look.

This pattern uses basic stitches like single crochet stitches, bobble stitches, and some crochet techniques like how to increase and decrease, and working in front loop only and back loop only.

Materials used in this tutorial are size 5 yarn in 2 different shades, a 4 mm crochet hook, 6mm safety eyes, stuffing, a tapestry needle, stitch markers, and scissors.

You can display in nurseries, bedrooms, or cozy reading corners, place on shelves, desks, or bedside tables as a peaceful decorative accent.

Materials

• Size 5 yarn in 2 colors (Alize Softy Baby):
• brown for the body
• beige for the snout
• Thin dark brown yarn for embroidery
• 4 mm crochet hook
• Stuffing
• 6 mm safety eyes (optional)
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

Abbreviations

Rnd – round
R – row
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
dc – double crochet stitch
BO – bobble stitch
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only

Head & Body

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a Mr (8)
Rnd 2-3: 8 sc (8)
Rnd 4: 4 inc, 4 sc (12)
Rnd 5: 8 inc, 4 sc (20)
Rnd 6-7: 20 sc (20)
Rnd 8: 5 sc, FLO (3 dc onto one st), 4 sc, FLO (3 dc into one st), 9 sc (20)
Rnd 9: 5 sc, sc into the unworked back loop, 4 sc, sc into the unworked back loop, 9 sc (20)

Rnd 9 and 20 – skip the stitches, which got worked intp FLO

Rnd 10: (sc, inc) x 8, 4 sc (28)

Optional: add safety eyes between R6-8, approx. 6-7 st apart.

Rnd 11: sc, BO, 20 sc, BO, 5 sc (28)
Rnd 12: 28 sc (28)
Rnd 13: (sc, inc, sc) x 8, 4 sc (36)
Rnd 14-17: 36 sc (36) (4 rounds)
Rnd 18: 3 sc, BO, 26 sc, BO, 5 sc (36)
Rnd 19: 17 sc, FLO (sc, ch 1, sc into same st), 18 sc (36)
Rnd 20: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x 6 (30) (one sc goes into the unworked back loop)
Rnd 21: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Start stuffing firmly.

Rnd 22: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 23: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 24: 6 dec (6)

Fasten off and close the hole.

Ears x2

Rnd 8: 4 sc, sc, FLO (3 dc into one st), sc, 2 sc, sc, FLO (3 dc into one st), sc, 8 sc (20)

Panda Mod

Working in BLO is optional, but will increse the quality of the color changes.

Rnd 1-3: same as base pattern, but in white.
Rnd 4: BLO (sc, sc in same st), 2 inc, BLO (sc, sc in same st), 4 sc (12)
Rnd 5: inc, inc, 4 inc, inc, inc, 4 sc (20)
Rnd 6: sc, BLO (sc), 2 sc, BLO (sc,), 6 sc, BLO (sc), 2 sc, BLO (sc), 5 sc (20)
Rnd 7: 2 sc, BLO (2 sc), 8 sc, BLO (2 sc), 6 sc (20)
Rnd 8: 4 sc, sc, FLO (3 sc into one st), sc, 2 sc, sc, FLO (3 dc into one st), sc, 8 sc (20)
Rnd 9: 5 sc, sc into the unworked back loop, 4 sc, sc into the unworked back loop, 8 sc, sl st (20)
Rnd 10: ch 1, BLO ((sc, inc) x 8, 3 sc), sc (28)
Rnd 11: sc, BO, 20 sc, BO, 4 sc, sl st (28)
Rnd 12: ch 1, BLO (27 sc) sc (28)
Rnd 13-17: same as base pattern, but in white
Rnd 18: 3 sc, BO, BLO (5 sc), 17 sc, BLO (5 sc), BO, sc, 3 sc (36)
Rnd 19: 3 sc, BLO (sc), 6 sc, 6 sc, BLO (sc), FLO (sc, ch 1, sc into same st), BLO (sc), 6 sc, BLO (sc), 6 sc, 4 sc (36)
Rnd 20: 2 sc, dec, sc, BLO (3 sc, dec), 4 sc, dec, BLO (sc), sc into the unworked back loop, BLO (sc), sc, dec, 3 sc, BLO (sc, dec, 4 sc), dec, 2 sc (30)

Start stuffing.

Rnd 21-24: same as the base pattern, but in white.

Fasten off and close the hole.

Embroidery

• Eyes: one line from Rnd 4-6.

• Nose: 1st wide, on the middle of the snout.

Done!

The post Chonky Sleepy Bear Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Yarn Gems.

Do you already have a collection of crochet Pokemon? Now you can add a new one to it, and it will be Ivysaur. A body in a soft blue color and a bright pink bud on the back will make this amigurumi toy a wonderful addition to your collection or a cute gift for Pokémon lovers.

To make this pattern you will need teal or blue, green, and cobalt blue yarn, a crochet hook of any size, safety eyes, and fiberfill.

The stitches used in this tutorial are simple and easy, like single crochet stitches, half double crochet, double crochet, and some crochet techniques like increasing and decreasing.

This tutorial starts by working on the body and head, then the legs, the leaves, the flower bud, and the little details, then assembles all the parts at the end. It’s super fun and relaxing to make.

Let’s get started!

Materials

• Teal or blue yarn, green yarn, cobalt blue yarn, pink yarn
• Crochet hook size you prefer
• Safety eyes
• Stuffing
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors

Abbreviations

Mr – magic ring
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
ch – chain
inc – increase
dec – decrease
Bo – bobble stitch
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
hdc inc – 2 hdc in the same stitch
dc inc – 2 dc in the same stitch
Picot – ch 2, sl st in the 1st chain made

Pattern work in continuous rounds.

Face

Start with teal yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a Mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: sc, inc, 2 sc, Bo, [2 sc, inc] x 2, 2 sc, Bo, 4 sc (21)
Rnd 5-6: 21 sc around (21)
Rnd 7: 7 sc, 2 hdc inc, sc, hdc inc, dc inc, hdc inc, sc, 2 hdc inc, 5 sc (28)
Rnd 8: (2 sc, dec) x 7 (21)

Place safety eyes between R5-6, 4 visible sts apart, aligned with dc inc in R7.

Start stuffing and continue stuffing as you go.

Rnd 9: 10 dec, sc (11)
Rnd 10: 5 dec, sc (5)

Fasten off and close the hole.

Face Marking

Start with cobalt blue yarn.

Thread a long strand of yarn onto a sewing needle. Make three lines on the face above the eyes.

Legs x4

Start with teal yarn.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in a Mr (4)
Rnd 2: inc x 4 (8)
Rnd 3: 8 sc around (8)

Fasten off.

Belly/Body

Start with teal yarn.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a Mr (8)
Rnd 2: inc x 8 (16)

We will crochet through both belly and legs. These steps are marked in green.

Rnd 3: (2 sc, 2 sc) x 4 (16)

We will crochet around the remaining leg sts; these steps are marked in green. Don’t work into the leg sts from the previous row.

Rnd 4: (6 sc, 2 sc) x 4 (32)
Rnd 5: 32 sc around (32)

Begin stuffing; stuff lightly so the legs don’t angle outward.

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 8 (24)
Rnd 7: 24 sc around (24)
Rnd 8: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 9: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 10: dec x 6 (6)

Fasten off and close the hole.

Bulb

Start with pink yarn.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a Mr (8)
Rnd 2: inc x 8 (16)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 8 (24)
Rnd 4: (sc, dec) x 8 (16)

Start stuffing and continue stuffing as you go.

Rnd 5: (sc, dec) x 5, sc (11)
Rnd 6: 5 dec, sc (6)
Rnd 7: (sc, dec) x 2 (4)

Fasten off and close the hole.

Leaf x 4

Start with green yarn.

Rnd 1: ch 5, 2nd ch from the hook
Rnd 2: sl st, [Picot, sl st in next foundation ch st] x 3
(Picot, sl st in same foundation ch st) x 2

Working on opposite side of chain:

(Picot, sl st in next foundation ch st) x 3
Picot, sl st in same foundation ch st

Leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly

• Face: sew the face on R8-9 centred between the legs.
• Leaf: sew them under the bulb on R3.
• Bulb: sew the bulb on top of the body R7-10.

• Body marking: in cobalt blue yarn – thread a long strand of yarn onto a sewing needle. Make two lines on each leg.

The post Cuddly Ivysaur Pokemon Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Yarn Gems.

Baby cow is an adorable crochet character designed with a sweet expression, tiny ears, and a soft, rounded body. Its gentle features and balanced proportions create a lovable amigurumi with a warm, playful personality.

This tutorial includes how to make a head, arms, body, ears, horns, legs, and nose, and it uses some simple crochet stitches like the single crochet stitch, bobble stitch, and some techniques like increasing and decreasing, and working in the back loop only and front loop only.

Materials needed to make this cute baby cow are chenille yarn, a 4.5mm crochet hook, 16 mm safety eyes, stuffing, a tapestry needle, stitch markers, and scissors.

You can display it in farmhouse, nursery, or country-themed décor. Add to a collection of farm animal amigurumi.

Materials

• Yarnsmith Chenille yarn
• 4.5 mm crochet hook
• 15-16 mm safety eyes
• Stuffing
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch marker

Abbreviations

Mr – magic ring
sc – single crochet
FLO – front loops only
BLO – back loops only
inc – increase
dec – decrease
BOB – booble stitch
BTL – back third loop

BTL – just locate the back thirs loop – this is the space behind the “V” of your single crochet and crochet into this loop to form a 3D shape.

Ears x2

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Mr (6)
Rnd 2: 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3: (2 sc, inc) x 4 (16)

Sl st to frist stitch.

Fasten off with short tail if you’d like pointed ears, do not cut yor magic circle tail, instead use to pinch and sew the edge of the ear to a point.

Legs x4

In hoof color.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Mr (8)
Rnd 2: 8 hdc inc (16)
Rnd 3: working in the BTL sc around (16)
Rnd 4: 4 sc, 4 dec, 4 sc (12)

Color change to body color.

Rnd 5-7: 12 sc (2 rounds)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail.

Tail

Begin in brown.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Mr (6)
Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)
Rnd 3: 8 sc (8)

Color change to white.

Rnd 4: 4 dec (4)
Rnd 5-6: 4 sc (2 rounds)

Fasten off with a short tail. Do not stuff.

Tall Horns x 2 (Optional)

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Mr (4)
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x 2 (6)
Rnd 3: (sc, dec) x 2 (4)

Sl st to first stitch.

Fasten off with short tail.

Body

(Make last, only make this once you’ve completed all legs and tail).

Rnd 1: 9 sc in Mr (9)
Rnd 2: 9 inc (18)

Do not fasten off.

The stitches which are through the leg and into the body, are highlighted in blue. When attaching the leg, insert your hook inside the leg, then the belly.

Rnd 1: 2 sc, 4 sc, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc, 4 sc, 2 sc, sc (18)

The next row you will be ignoring the 2 sc we used to attach the legs and crocheting around the remaining leg stitches. The purple indicates spot colour changes.

Rnd 2: 3 sc, 3 sc, 22 sc, 2 sc, 20 sc (50)
Rnd 3: 2 sc, 5 sc, 8 sc, 3 sc, 9 sc, 3 sc, 19 sc (50)
Rnd 4: 3 sc, 4 sc, 8 sc, 4 sc, 8 sc, 4 sc, 19 sc (50)
Rnd 5: 4 sc, 2 sc, 10 sc, 3 sc, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, 3 sc, 10 sc, 3 sc, 5 sc, dec (48)
Rnd 6: (6 sc, dec) x 2, 2 sc, 4 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc, sc, dec, 2 sc, 4 sc, dec (42)
Rnd 7: (5 sc, dec) x 4, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, 3 sc, dec (36)
Rnd 8: (4 sc, dec) x 3, holding the tail to the body, place 2sc through 2 of the tail stitches and the body, 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, 2 sc, dec (30)
Rnd 9: (3 sc, dec) x 3, 2 sc through remaining tail stitches and body, sc, dec (3 sc, dec) x 2 (24)
Rnd 10: (sc, dec) x 8 (16)
Rnd 11: 8 dec (8)

Fasten off and close with a long tail.

*Recommended stitches to place each leg:
1st – 3/2
2nd – 6/5
3rd – 9/8
4th – 10/11

Head 3d Horns

Begin in pink.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Mr (6)
Rnd 2: 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Change color to white.

Rnd 4: 18 sc (18)

Color change to brown is highlighted.

Rnd 5: 7 sc, 3 inc, inc, sc, 6 sc (22)
Rnd 6: 7 sc, (sc, inc) x 2, sc, (inc, sc) x 2, 6 sc (26)
Rnd 7: 7 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 2, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 7 sc (30)
Rnd 8: 18 sc, 4 sc, 8 sc (30)
Rnd 9: 11 sc, (sc through 1st ear fold), 2 sc attaching horns/head, 4 sc, 2 sc attaching hors/head, (sc through 1st), 9 sc (30)
Rnd 10: 11 sc, sc through 2nd ear fold, 6 sc, sc through 2nd ear fold, 9 sc (30)
Rnd 11: 30 sc (30)

Place eyes between rows 6-7 with 8 visible stitches between.

Rnd 12: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Begin to stuff.

Rnd 13: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 14: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 15: 6 dec (6)

Fasten off and close.

Face Shaping

Insert yarn needle from underneath on the opposite side to bottom/side of intended eye.

Reinsert needle a couple stitches over, still on the bottom of the eye and pull out where you initially inserted. Pull on the tails at the bottom of the head and you will achieve the “sunken” eye look.

Head Bobble Horns

Begin in pink.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Mr (6)
Rnd 2: 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Change color to white.

Rnd 4: 18 sc (18)

Color change to brown is highlighted.

Rnd 5: 7 sc, 3 inc, inc, sc, 6 sc (22)
Rnd 6: 7 sc, (sc, inc) x 2, sc, (inc, sc) x 2, 6 sc (26)
Rnd 7: 7 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 2, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 7 sc (30)
Rnd 8: 18 sc, 4 sc, 8 sc (30)

Bobble stitches are done in choice of horn color.

Rnd 9: 11 sc, (sc through 1st ear fold), BOB, 5 sc, BOB, (sc through 1st), 8 sc (30)
Rnd 10: 11 sc, (sc through 2nd ear fold), 7 sc, (sc through 2nd), 8 sc (30)
Rnd 11: 30 sc (30)

Place eyes between rows 6-7 with 8 visible stitches betwewen.

Rnd 12: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Begin to stuff.

Rnd 13: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 14: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 15: 6 dec (6)

Fasnte off and close off.

Face Shaping

Insert yarn needle from underneath on the opposite side to the bottom/side of the intended eye.

Reinsert needle a couple stitches over, still on the bottom of the eye and pull out where you initially inserted. Pull on the tails at the bottom of the head and you will achieve the ‘sunken’ eye look.

Assembly

• Sew the head to the body piece.
• Done!

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